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Hiking the Cinque Terre

Our hike of the Cinque Terre started at Monterosso. After taking the ferry ride we paused for a few hours to sample the Ligurian Sea.
The two largest beaches with beach clubs providing chaise lounges and umbrellas for those wishing to rent cover much of the area. But, there is a small area where you can just put your towel on the beach and hop in for a quick swim. We chose the beach in front of the historic town. To reach the “Fegina” (resort beach) you walk through the tunnel right next to the dock. There are a changing/rest rooms right near the dock where, for 1€, you can change in or out of your suit. The salt water felt good on our feet. Jeff and I ventured in a swim, while Nancy watched from the shore.








Bob was off checking out the town and getting us water for the hike.





The sun was already fairly high when we started our hike. The first part is the most rigorous, and we stared almost immediately hiking up hill.

Beautiful vistas provided those much need pauses to take pictures.

Some of us loved just looking out to sea.

Others relished the multitude of wild flowers. And Bob, of course, scouted out the berry bushes.

It took us about two hours to reach Vernazza, the second town in the Cinque Terra chain.
In Vernazza, we stopped for a light lunch and something cool to drink. While there we ran into an older couple from New Zealand who had traveled on the ferry with us. They had gotten off at Riomaggiore and were taking the train between towns and then would take the ferry back to La Spezia. We made a group of six for lunch, resting our legs and swapping stories.
Time became an issue, and the trail between Vernazza and Corniglia was almost as rigorous as the first part of the trail. We opted for the train.
Getting off the train in Corniglia you either take a shuttle bus up to the town, or “Lardarina” (a staircase of 33 flights with 377 stairs) ….or you keep hiking. We chose to keep hiking. The smallest of the Cinque Terra towns Corniglia sits high on a bluff. It was once a Roman village and its surrounding hill a full of vineyards which date back to that time. Corniglia is also home to the Ligurian Gothic church of San Pietro which I hope to visit on my next trip.
After Corniglia there is less climbing among the vineyard and more hiking along the sea coast.


This path to Manarola is designated “Difficoltà lieve” (Low Difficulty). It stays fairly level until just before Manarola where you gradually ascend to a point above the town giving hikers a spectacular entrance. Manarola is colourful historic village where the houses seem to come out of the rocks of the long, narrow marina. Things to see there include the gothic 1338 “Church of San Lorenzo” and the Oratory of “Santissima Annuziata.”
The last part of the trail is called La Via dell'Amore and is categorized as “Difficoltà nessuna” (Not difficult). This is a walk everyone should try who comes to the Cinque Terra. Our 80 year old friends from New Zealand did. Paved and essentially flat this one kilometer “Lovers Walk” from Manarola to Riomaggiore was a perfect way to end our hike.

Ferrying through Cinque Terre

Portovenere

Sharing “Cinque Terra with friends (or any hike for that matter), is doubly more fun. Cinque Terra is a group of five small towns along the Italian Coast between Genoa and La Spezia. This track of land is considered a Unesco World Heritage Site and Italy made it a national park in 1999. Each town is primarily a fishing village. But it is the location of these villages perched high up on bluffs that makes them so beautiful. There is a ferry that runs from La Spezia and in good weather when the ferry is running that you get the most spectacular first impression of these villages. The second way to get to know them is to hike from one village to the other on the former donkey paths. A third way is to take the train, fast, efficient, easier on the knees but you miss out on the wonderful views.

This blog will document the first part of our trip with friends Nancy and Jeff. We started out early in the morning from our hotel in La Spezia where after a short taxi ride boarded the ferry which makes continual runs up and down the coast stopping at Portovenere and each of the Cinque Terre towns farther north. Our trip was initially held up by Italian Navel maneuvers in the Golf of La Spezia. Here we sat for ½ and hours watching people jump out of helicopters into the bay. It is easy to see why this is also referred to as the Gulf of Poets. Shelly, Lord Byron, Dante and Petrarch all wrote of it beauty. Near our boat we were able to observe the mussel fields (bouchots) in the bay.

Once we left the Golf of La Spezia we came upon the town of Portovenere. This is the only town in this chain without train service. Entering it by ferry or car in the only way in. Watching it from the sea we were impressed by the little Gothic Church of St. Peter perched on the promontory point.

Next stop was Riomaggiore, followed by Manarola, Corniglia high on the bluff, then Vernazza and finally Monterossa.

Riomaggiore











Manarola








Corniglia









Vernazza







Monterosso al Mare

Wine and Food – Roman Style or How I Lost Weight Eating Pasta Everyday

For those of us used to the American Menu, the Roman Menu takes some getting used to.

The general order of the menu is:

Antipasti Appetizers

Primi Piatti Pasta or Rice Dish

Secondi Piatti Meat or Fish

Contorni Salad or Hot Vegetable

Dessert Dessert & Cafe

Guess what, you don’t have to order all five courses! My husband and I generally split a primi and a secondi. Rarely do we order an Antipasto (although Bruschetta in June with fresh tomatoes is our weakness) and we usually ask for just one “insalata” to be served before the Primi Piatti.

In our late 50’s we are looking to lose rather that gain weight. This system lets us try several dishes and not over order or over eat. The Romans use fresh ingredients; little sugar or salt. Portions are smaller than in the US. I even learned to make the tomato sauce made “Roman Style” is called “Amatriciana”.

It starts with bacon browned in olive oil then removed. Onion and garlic are stir fried in this oil until limp but not browned. Add tomato paste and fresh chopped Roma tomatoes. Add a can of water from the tomato paste. Add your seasonings. (I like basil and some red pepper flakes.) Bring to a boil and then turn down to medium heat until the sauce looses about ½ it liquidity. Pour over prepared paste (whole wheat is good) and add the bacon and grated Pecorino. Pass red pepper (peperoncino) flakes for those who like their pasta spicy.

Rome is a foodie’s paradise. We tried everything with the exception of Tripe (considered a specialty of Rome). Some of our favorite dishes were Pasta dei perfume di limone; Paste de Tartufe; Grilled Asparagus and of course Tiramisu.

Yes, we ate our way through Rome…but we walked everywhere….that’s the real reason we lost weight.

PS There is always pizza for the less adventurous!

Villa Gregorianna - A lovely hike

Open letter to Rick Steves. While I have listened to your radio programs, watched your TV show, bought your books and downloaded your pod-castes; I have found little on one of my favorite weekend hikes. Hiking Villa Gregoriana, in the Roman suburb of Tivoli is a great break from the intense touring of historic Rome. While this area was a favorite get away during Roman time it has remained a vital retreat from the hot Roman summers through all the ages since.

Pope Gregory XVI in 1830 authorized the building of a tunnel to redirect the Aniene River, which frequently flooded the town. At that time it was an engineering wonder, and interested tourists came to view the 160 meter waterfall that resulted in the river’s diversion. Hiking trails to the base of the falls provide a great family/friends/lovers hike. In 2003, the area was completely cleared of debris and junk that had accumulated over the years. The result is a beautiful park that the citizens of Tivoli are truly proud. Anyone coming to Tivoli to visit Villa d’Este or Haridan’s Villa should be encouraged to include this hike.

Included are some pictures from that hike!

Settled In...In roma

This is our 7^th trip to Rome. But, each time I come I feel that I am on the verge of a big adventure. This time we have the opportunity to stay for 2 months. Maybe I will finally begin to learn to speak Italiano. With a basic knowledge of Spanish and the ability to read a map; plus the patience of so many Italians who “parlano Inglese”, all our previous trips have been sheer joy. I look forward to the little apartment with 66 steps and a views of the Capitoline and Palatine Hills; the friends who value our presence; and, the opportunity to live (if only for a short time) in this beautiful and historic city.

Our first week was settling in. We adapted to the rhythm of the city. We don’t miss our car. Rather we enjoy the Metro and buses. We walk rather than ride. And, though our legs are tried each night, our energy level is gradually improving. It is “una semplice vita.”

What a great place to photograph and maybe paint a picture or two.

Never carry too much luggage!

I keep telling myself not to bring too much luggage. Changing planes at Dullus confirmed that. Loaded down with books because the checked bag was too full meant having to carry all the books on the plane with me. Note to self...every major city in the world has bookstores with books written in English. Next time you go to Rome wait to buy books till you get there. Termini Train station has a great bookstore.